San Martin Tilcajete is one of three villages in the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca known for carving and painting fanciful figures popularly known as alebrijes; mythical dragons and other animals, pieces with cultural or religious imagery, and more. Typically the men carve the figures out of a soft wood, copal, and the women paint. But Efrain Fuentes Santiago and family are atypical. Since the second decade of this century, a great deal of Efrain’s work has been carving images of agave, the succulent used to distill mezcal, into hardwood. Rather than finishing them by painting, he leaves the wood natural. And most recently he has been fashioning different scenes representative of a series of stages in the production of mezcal.
The 1980s witnessed the rapid growth of the alebrije industry. Over time, virtually every family in San Martin Tilcajete began earning most if not all of its living carving and painting, for the tourist industry. The Fuentes Santiago family was no different. By the turn of the century while alebrije production increased, so did distillation of mezcal. And every year since about 2010, production of the agave distillate has risen meteorically. Along with the phenomenon has arrived mezcal tourism. That is, visitors to Oaxaca coming to the state capital of Oaxaca de Juárez trekking to nearby villages in and around the central valleys where the agave is primarily distilled. They come to learn about mezcal production, to start their own brands for export, to buy from their favorite distillers, and to film documentaries and photograph for exhibits.
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